Dallas Restaurant Reviews
|
Suze ("Sue's") Global 4345 W. Northwest Hwy., Dallas, Texas 214-350-6135
|
Dallas Restaurant Review:
Suze attracts an affluent crowd from the Preston Hollow and Bluffview neighborhoods who
have discovered that they don’t need to leave The Hollow to enjoy 4-Star food.
SETTING - Tucked away at the back of a shopping center at Northwest Highway and Midway
Road in northwest Dallas, Suze is simple on the outside, but owner & chef Gilbert Garza has a
creative menu that can hold its own with any restaurant in town.
APPETIZERS - When they bring the complimentary basket of fresh-baked bread, they also
bring a bowl of oil-with-pesto-and-garlic for dipping. It’s almost decadent. Then I order the
Kobe Beef Carpaccio with Deep-fried Shallots & Avocado for an appetizer, which blows me
away. I realize that I need to pace myself with the bread and oil now, but I can't stop. (I
also recommend the Roasted Manchester Farms Quail appetizer, and the Moroccan Delights, a
platter of Mediterranean nibbles that would do a Lebanese restaurant proud. Or order their
“Award Winning Caesar Salad” with Brown Sugar Pecans.)
ENTREES - It’s not a lengthy menu, but it’s intriguing. A few examples include Pan Roasted
King Salmon with Chilled Cucumber Mint Salad and Rice Noodles; Porcini Papardelle Pasta with
a hearty Veal Bolognese sauce (a favorite); the Black Pepper Crusted Baby Rack of Lamb; and
two outstanding tenderloins - one with carmelized onions and one with a szechuan pepper rub.
Entrees run from $16 to $34.
WINE - Some restaurants mostly serve the “usual suspects”. Others mostly have labels that
you’ve never heard of. Suze’ fairly extensive wine list is a nice balance of both, and not at all
high-priced. Best of all, there are over 30 wines by the glass. Like your favorite Napa Valley
hideaway, Suze serves good wines but no mixed drinks.
AMBIANCE - Warm, cozy, dimly-lit, tasteful, relaxed. Deep browns and brick-red walls.
Definitely upscale, but still casual enough that they have wine racks and even a few wine
crates stacked in the corners. Given its proximity to a couple of Dallas' most elegant estate
neighborhoods, the diners are thirty-ish and up.
RESERVATIONS - Advisable on Friday and Saturday. Weeknights vary. Only open for
dinner, Tuesday through Saturday.
BOTTOM LINE - It doesn’t get much better than Suze.
