Trattoria Nostrani High end Northern Italian 304 Johnson St., Santa Fe 505-983-3800
Santa Fe Restaurant Review:
I’ll start with the bottom line … Trattoria Nostrani has been honored as one of the Top 50 Restaurants in America by Gourmet magazine. And I can see why.
SETTING - A typical Santa Fe-style building just a couple blocks from the central plaza. But inside, it’s all Italy.
FOOD - Unlike the mind-blowing wine list (more on that in a minute), the classic northern Italian menu is not extensive. But as one of the waiters said with a smile, “Let me put it this way … everything that comes out of that kitchen is excellent.” You could throw darts at the menu and have an exceptional meal. Appetizers run $10-$15, pastas under $20, and entrees $25-$40. On one hand it’s not cheap; on the other, this is a nationally-ranked restaurant, and you get what you pay for. To see an example menu (it evolves continually, so I am not going to recommend anything), I suggest that you visit their excellentweb site.
WINE - The wine list is the size of a small-town phone book – probably 20 pages. Hundreds of wines, 99% Italian. Often there are 4 or 5 different vintage years of the same label (at commensurate prices). Naturally, the great majority of them are $100+, but there are many less expensive choices, as well. And get this - they have a separate and extensive list of French wines although you may have to ask for it. Trattoria Nostrani has a nice little bar but no spirits - just a wine bar serving their 30 or 40 wines by the glass.
AMBIANCE - The interior is Italian trattoria, upscale but relaxed. When I’ve been there (which has been in the off season), it’s been a well-heeled Santa Fe crowd inside.
DOWN SIDE? - The restaurant is "fragrance free", and I have heard (but not seen) that they have turned people away if the owner smells cologne or even fragranced body lotion maybe. This is Santa Fe, which is quirky, but Nostrani has taken quirky to a new level. I almost hesitated to recommend it for this reason. Hope no one in your party gets sniffed. Seriously.
RESERVATIONS - Recommended during the busy seasons such as summer and the winter holidays. Trattoria Nostrani is only open for dinner, Tuesday through Saturday – 5 meals a week.
BOTTOM LINE – Santa Fe is obviously better known for it’s top-flight Southwestern fare, but I think thatTrattoria Nostrani could go head-to-head with the best Italian restaurants in the U.S.