| Puerto Vallarta Restaurant Reviews |
| A Gringo's Guide to Vallarta |
A few personal observations -- if you've been there, skip this.
PERSONAL SAFETY. The news in the U.S. about crime in Mexico grabs a lot of headlines,
but frankly, you're more likely to be killed in an auto accident driving to your airport to get
here. Puerto Vallarta is not one of the places that has been in the news -- those are mostly
along the border, a few areas in the interior, and there have been isolated incidents in a
couple other resort towns, but crime can happen in any city, in either country. I feel very
safe in P.V., as does everyone I've talked with. It's a very American-friendly town.
PESOS. When I arrive at the airport, I use the ATM machine to get Pesos. When it asks you
if you want $1,000, that's 1,000 Pesos (about $75 U.S. the last time I looked, but the
exchange rate drifts a little.)
TAXIS. Puerto Vallarta's taxis are clean, easy-to-find, and inexpensive. The drivers are
friendly, even when they don't know much English. They have fixed rates between Zones, but
it never hurts to ask "how much to ____?" before you get in. Your hotel can tell you what the
customary rates are to wherever.
BUSES. Downtown P.V. is cool. At one time I mainly used the inexpensive taxis to get around,
but then I discovered the bus system. The city buses are full of gringos who know. For
instance, from the Hotel Zone to downtown, it's about 85 pesos, or 65c. Almost all of the
buses say "Centro" (downtown). They come about every 3-5 minutes. The buses back to the
Hotel Zone say "Hoteles". Wherever you're staying, ask at your hotel's front desk for
details. A taxi to Mismaloya, a beautiful cove 25 scenic minutes down the coast, is about $15
each way, which is not bad. The bus is 80c and leaves every 10 minutes from the old part of
Vallarta - on Aguacate at Venustiano Carranza - or just ask. Go native -- try the bus sometime.
It can be part of the fun.
FOOD. Despite stories from the old days in Mexico, I have never gotten sick in Puerto
Vallarta. The water supply has been certified safe since 1992. I drink the water and eat
everything I want. But I don't eat at places that don't have a kitchen, like street vendors.
Or on a fishing boat with an outboard motor. Although they're both probably fine, too. (And
FYI, steaks will be tasty, but are rarely "prime" or "choice" like the top-end steak houses at
home. Adjust your expectations accordingly.)
ASK FOR THE CHECK. It's traditional and a matter of courtesy in Mexico that the waiters
do not bring the check ("la cuenta") until you ask. It's their custom as gracious hosts.
Bringing the check before you say you're ready would be like having a dinner guest at your
home and taking them their coat without them asking. Ask when you're ready, but who's in a
hurry?
DOWNTOWN. It's about 12 blocks long and extends from the waterfront (the "Malecon"
and then the beach just south of it) up the hill 4-5 streets. That area includes most of the
restaurants listed here and a whole lot more. Downtown PV is a fun place to sightsee and walk
around. Many visitors stay right along the water, but there are some excellent, almost
undiscovered restaurants in the very safe neighborhoods just a few blocks off the beaten
path.
BEACH VENDORS. They sell sunglasses, jewelry, etc. Whatever they ask in price, you can
probably get it for half, and sometimes less. It's a ritual. You laugh and tell them at least
twice, "I'm sorry, that's too much." In fact, keep telling them that until they won't go any
lower. They're almost all very pleasant (some have a great sense of humor and love kidding
and playing the game with you) and can actually be kind of fun to bargain with. Keep your sense
of humor and you'll enjoy getting a bargain!
THE MALECON - The walk along the seawall downtown is fascinating. Day is quiet and totally
different than night, when the local families, lovers, and best friends come out in multitudes.
There are often live public performances. The nightclubs open up and it's a "happening" spot
after dark. Highly recommended.
THE PEOPLE. The Mexican residents of Puerto Vallarta are some of the nicest people you'll
meet .... friendlier than in many U.S. cities. But customs and ways of doing things do differ
between our countries, including the food. I make it a point to remember that I'm a guest in
their home, to thank them, and to always show my appreciation for their hospitality.
PERSONAL SAFETY. The news in the U.S. about crime in Mexico grabs a lot of headlines,
but frankly, you're more likely to be killed in an auto accident driving to your airport to get
here. Puerto Vallarta is not one of the places that has been in the news -- those are mostly
along the border, a few areas in the interior, and there have been isolated incidents in a
couple other resort towns, but crime can happen in any city, in either country. I feel very
safe in P.V., as does everyone I've talked with. It's a very American-friendly town.
PESOS. When I arrive at the airport, I use the ATM machine to get Pesos. When it asks you
if you want $1,000, that's 1,000 Pesos (about $75 U.S. the last time I looked, but the
exchange rate drifts a little.)
TAXIS. Puerto Vallarta's taxis are clean, easy-to-find, and inexpensive. The drivers are
friendly, even when they don't know much English. They have fixed rates between Zones, but
it never hurts to ask "how much to ____?" before you get in. Your hotel can tell you what the
customary rates are to wherever.
BUSES. Downtown P.V. is cool. At one time I mainly used the inexpensive taxis to get around,
but then I discovered the bus system. The city buses are full of gringos who know. For
instance, from the Hotel Zone to downtown, it's about 85 pesos, or 65c. Almost all of the
buses say "Centro" (downtown). They come about every 3-5 minutes. The buses back to the
Hotel Zone say "Hoteles". Wherever you're staying, ask at your hotel's front desk for
details. A taxi to Mismaloya, a beautiful cove 25 scenic minutes down the coast, is about $15
each way, which is not bad. The bus is 80c and leaves every 10 minutes from the old part of
Vallarta - on Aguacate at Venustiano Carranza - or just ask. Go native -- try the bus sometime.
It can be part of the fun.
FOOD. Despite stories from the old days in Mexico, I have never gotten sick in Puerto
Vallarta. The water supply has been certified safe since 1992. I drink the water and eat
everything I want. But I don't eat at places that don't have a kitchen, like street vendors.
Or on a fishing boat with an outboard motor. Although they're both probably fine, too. (And
FYI, steaks will be tasty, but are rarely "prime" or "choice" like the top-end steak houses at
home. Adjust your expectations accordingly.)
ASK FOR THE CHECK. It's traditional and a matter of courtesy in Mexico that the waiters
do not bring the check ("la cuenta") until you ask. It's their custom as gracious hosts.
Bringing the check before you say you're ready would be like having a dinner guest at your
home and taking them their coat without them asking. Ask when you're ready, but who's in a
hurry?
DOWNTOWN. It's about 12 blocks long and extends from the waterfront (the "Malecon"
and then the beach just south of it) up the hill 4-5 streets. That area includes most of the
restaurants listed here and a whole lot more. Downtown PV is a fun place to sightsee and walk
around. Many visitors stay right along the water, but there are some excellent, almost
undiscovered restaurants in the very safe neighborhoods just a few blocks off the beaten
path.
BEACH VENDORS. They sell sunglasses, jewelry, etc. Whatever they ask in price, you can
probably get it for half, and sometimes less. It's a ritual. You laugh and tell them at least
twice, "I'm sorry, that's too much." In fact, keep telling them that until they won't go any
lower. They're almost all very pleasant (some have a great sense of humor and love kidding
and playing the game with you) and can actually be kind of fun to bargain with. Keep your sense
of humor and you'll enjoy getting a bargain!
THE MALECON - The walk along the seawall downtown is fascinating. Day is quiet and totally
different than night, when the local families, lovers, and best friends come out in multitudes.
There are often live public performances. The nightclubs open up and it's a "happening" spot
after dark. Highly recommended.
THE PEOPLE. The Mexican residents of Puerto Vallarta are some of the nicest people you'll
meet .... friendlier than in many U.S. cities. But customs and ways of doing things do differ
between our countries, including the food. I make it a point to remember that I'm a guest in
their home, to thank them, and to always show my appreciation for their hospitality.
| My favorite Mariachi song is "Malagueña" most famously used in the movie, "Kill Bill" |