| The Mercury Grill New American 11909 Preston Rd., Dallas, Texas 972-960-7774 |
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| Dallas Restaurant Review: Mercury is one of those innovative "New American" places. It’s owned by the “M Crowd”, which is best-known for their always-packed Mi Cocina Mexican restaurants. Mercury is their high-end and highly-successful concept which has become a North Dallas fixture. SETTING – A somewhat unassuming (for this part of town) shopping center. To be honest, I think the center is owned by Meletio Electric, which sells circuit breakers and light sockets, so let’s just say that the drive-up appeal at Mercury is somewhat less than the elegant restaurant you find inside. But that hasn’t kept anyone away. FOOD – The food at the Mercury is creative and artfully prepared. To start, try the 48-Hour Braised Short Rib, which is so tender it absolutely falls off the bone. For entrees, a friend swears by the Cracklin’ Chicken with Mousseline Potatoes. The Lamb Shank is outstanding (and UPstanding, at about 10” tall.) Mercury's Wild Mushroom Risotto is wonderful, as well. But the show-stopper, if you like seafood, is the Black Cod with Blond Miso Sauce – a thick, juicy, buttery, flaky slice of cod. Unbelievable. The salads are also first-rate. Entrees $21 - $31. And they serve some very nice flavored iced teas in individual bottles – peach, raspberry, blackberry, etc. WINES – Fairly extensive selection, from moderately priced to $100. Or ask for their "Captain's List", $100-$500. BAR – Great cocktails, relaxed atmosphere. If I have an 8:00 reservation, I usually arrive early just to visit the bar. I like to start with a well-shaken martini, straight up with olives. Followed by a bottle of wine at the table. Suit yourself. AMBIANCE – The Mercury has a sleek, slightly Euro look inside, dark with dramatic lighting. It's a North Dallas crowd, dressy casual but not pretentious or stuffy. It has the feel of an upscale neighborhood restaurant. It's not unusual to see people greet someone else at another table, or even hug the staff as they arrive. BOTTOM LINE – "Name" chef (Chris Ward). Excellent food & service. If I gave stars (but I don't) the Mercury would get 4. |
| Dallas Restaurant Reviews |
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