| Al Biernat's Steaks, Seafood 4217 Oak Lawn Avenue, Dallas 214-219-2201 |
| Dallas Restaurant Review: Al Biernat ("ber-NAY") describes his namesake restaurant as more than a great steakhouse". No argument about that. SETTING The address is on Oak Lawn Avenue, on the south edge of the Park Cities, but the main entrance is in the rear. The exterior shows a hint of exotic Mediterranean, a theme carried out inside, as well. FOOD Al Biernat's truly is more than a great steakhouse. It has a killer line-up of seafood; there are 10 excellent appetizers; 10 outstanding salads; and a dozen steaks ($40-$55 be prepared). My favorite: the 24 oz. Cowboy Cut Ribeye. I was slightly embarrassed last time when I noticed some other diners staring at me as I gnawed on the bone -- but screw 'em. When it tastes that good, I'm not stopping. For seafood, I suggest the Chilean Sea Bass with Lobster Risotto. If you're a little more adventuresome, order the thick, tender Colorado Elk in Shitake & Port Wine. SERVICE It's hard to put my finger on exactly what makes their service so good. They're not pretentious or overly-rehearsed; they're always there when you need them but without being a nuisance; and they're relaxed and have a sense of humor. WINES A "modest" 650 selections and 10,000 bottles -- all price ranges. I feel like a kid in a candy store. AMBIANCE The beautiful interior is unlike the conventional steakhouse. If you're ready for a change from the usual dark woods, Al Biernat's is the place. It has just a touch of mystery arches, columns, alcoves, and subtle lighting. I feel like I'm on vacation somewhere. BAR The bar is elegant, laid back, and (as you would expect) serves excellent drinks. Check out the somewhat Moorish blue-domed ceiling. It's worth arriving early, just to have a drink there. BOTTOM LINE Al Biernat was the manager of the legendary Palm restaurant for over 20 years, and trust me, the guy knows how to run a steakhouse. Reservations highly recommended. |
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