| Dallas Restaurant Reviews |
| Abacus "Global Contemporary Cuisine" 4511 McKinney Ave., Dallas, Tx. 214-559-3111 |
Abacus is a star of the Dallas restaurant scene. Über-chef (and owner) Kent Rathbun is on
the national radar screen.
SETTING – A new building on old McKinney Avenue. Very sleek, almost futuristic interior –
I'd call it "soft contemporary".
FOOD – Abacus bills itself as "Global Contemporary Cuisine". Others might say it's New
American or Fusion. (They also have a separate and very expensive sushi menu.) The prices at
Abacus are not for the faint of heart, but you get your money's worth. For appetizers, the
Lobster Scallion Shooters in Red Chile Sake (20 bucks) are like sex in a shot glass. The
Proscuttio Wrapped Rare Ahi Tuna (also 20 bucks) is totally awesome, and I'll bet that no one
has ever complained about the price. Among entrees, the menu continually evolves, and my
latest favorite is the "Surf & Turf" (White Miso Black Cod in Ginger Broth with Kobe Beef
Dumplings). Or try the Wood Roasted Buffalo Tenderloin with Red Wine Butter and Truffle
Whipped Potatoes. And the complimentary basket of incredible house-baked breads should win
an award all its own. Appetizers $16-$22. Entrees $36-$50.
SERVICE – Impeccable. And the black-clad wait staff gives very good advice on the menu if
you can't make up your mind. Trust them.
WINES – The Abacus wine list (250 bottles) has racked up a long list of awards. In Pinot
Noirs alone, there are over 30 labels. Plus about 50 different half-bottles, 30 wines by the
glass, everything you could possibly want. No screw top caps here.
AMBIANCE – Very contemporary. Very open kitchen. Very busy. Very upscale (casual elegant
to business attire). See and be seen. More New Money than Old Money. If you arrive early
for your reservation, the bar is definitely worth a detour.
BOTTOM LINE – Abacus is a top dog among Dallas restaurants. Probably in the whole
southwest. If you've never been there, I guarantee that your visit will be a memorable one.
Bring your best credit card.
Their web site.
the national radar screen.
SETTING – A new building on old McKinney Avenue. Very sleek, almost futuristic interior –
I'd call it "soft contemporary".
FOOD – Abacus bills itself as "Global Contemporary Cuisine". Others might say it's New
American or Fusion. (They also have a separate and very expensive sushi menu.) The prices at
Abacus are not for the faint of heart, but you get your money's worth. For appetizers, the
Lobster Scallion Shooters in Red Chile Sake (20 bucks) are like sex in a shot glass. The
Proscuttio Wrapped Rare Ahi Tuna (also 20 bucks) is totally awesome, and I'll bet that no one
has ever complained about the price. Among entrees, the menu continually evolves, and my
latest favorite is the "Surf & Turf" (White Miso Black Cod in Ginger Broth with Kobe Beef
Dumplings). Or try the Wood Roasted Buffalo Tenderloin with Red Wine Butter and Truffle
Whipped Potatoes. And the complimentary basket of incredible house-baked breads should win
an award all its own. Appetizers $16-$22. Entrees $36-$50.
SERVICE – Impeccable. And the black-clad wait staff gives very good advice on the menu if
you can't make up your mind. Trust them.
WINES – The Abacus wine list (250 bottles) has racked up a long list of awards. In Pinot
Noirs alone, there are over 30 labels. Plus about 50 different half-bottles, 30 wines by the
glass, everything you could possibly want. No screw top caps here.
AMBIANCE – Very contemporary. Very open kitchen. Very busy. Very upscale (casual elegant
to business attire). See and be seen. More New Money than Old Money. If you arrive early
for your reservation, the bar is definitely worth a detour.
BOTTOM LINE – Abacus is a top dog among Dallas restaurants. Probably in the whole
southwest. If you've never been there, I guarantee that your visit will be a memorable one.
Bring your best credit card.
Their web site.
